Encosta Do Lago

“A week in Portugal’s Beverly Hills”

With a football training camp for my sons booked last-minute, I needed to construct the rest of the holiday around it. What I hadn’t realised is that Quinta do Lago, where the camp was based, makes up one of the corners of the Algarve’s super-affluent Golden Triangle. This is apparent when searc... more

With a football training camp for my sons booked last-minute, I needed to construct the rest of the holiday around it. What I hadn’t realised is that Quinta do Lago, where the camp was based, makes up one of the corners of the Algarve’s super-affluent Golden Triangle. This is apparent when searching for accommodation, the prices of which are eye-watering in high season. I settled for Encosta do Lago. Although not cheap, they had a discounted two-bedroom apartment which looked nice. Oddly, the stated cancellation fee was over double what I was paying. This suggested someone forgot to amend it in line with the reduced price, so on the face of it I got a pretty good deal. On the transfer from Faro airport, the endless mansions you pass are a shameless showcase of wealth, with grounds that look like they’ve been manicured with nail scissors. As we raced down avenues named after Formula 1 drivers, our musings about Beverly Hills and Hotel California made our driver smile (though I’m sure he’d heard it all before). If such an environment sounds a bit sterile, have faith, because Quinta do Lago also boasts a wonderful nature reserve, with excellent cycling routes and birdwatching. In thirty glorious minutes from Encosta do Lago, you’ve cycled right up to the end of Faro airport’s runway, with the more authentic Faro Island (not a real island, but still remote-feeling) easily reachable. You can go surfing there (Surf School Faro is recommended). Or, as I did, send my sons surfing while I relaxed at the nearby Cais 73 on their roof terrace with a glass of vinho verde. Nice. Back in Quinta do Lago, the advice is to hire a car, especially as the closest supermarket to Encosta do Lago is a ten-minute car ride away. To save a few euros, we hired bicycles, which made our initial supermarket forées somewhat precarious. However, after a while, I felt rather superior to those other tourists, trapped in their air-conned cocoons. Although quite late at night, our arrival at Encosta do Lago was effortless. The security guard was ready with an envelope containing our key, leisure passes and welcome pack. He took to his caddy and guided our driver to our apartment. Which was, to say the least, like ‘wow’. You enter into a hall that’s almost a room in itself, off which emanate the main rooms. One of these is the kitchen, fitted with all major appliances, as well as a capsule coffee machine and toaster. The only thing missing was a corkscrew. This is a deal-breaker in Portugal, as not many of their wines are screw-top. However, ten minutes after I mentioned this omission to the concierge, one was delivered. (Another welcome delivery is fresh bread and cakes, which Housekeeping drop by in a wicker basket every morning except Sunday.) Wander into the lounge, and you just want to relax. When it gets too hot on the balcony (more about that in a mo’), the lounge is always just right. Both Sky TV and aircon are piped-in, so switch them on, and chill. Both bedrooms are master-sized, sporting ample wardrobe space and safes. But the intended master bedroom leads to a larger ensuite bathroom, which offers you the additional choice of bathing and jacuzzi-ing, as well as showering. Like the lounge, this main bedroom also boasts access to the apartment’s balcony, a space which deserves a special mention. It wraps around the entire rear aspect of the apartment, with part of the balcony in shade and part in sun, giving you a choice of sunbathing options. Further praise has to go to the excellent concierge service. So helpful, friendly and attentive. For instance, they proactively made calls to the surf school and bike hire company on my behalf, to ensure there were no misunderstandings. Encosta is largely a residential complex, and best-suited to self-catering holidays. There is no town centre or strip close by, and only a handful of restaurants within walking distance. The Shack is not bad, child-friendly and beautifully located next to a watersports centre – it’s a right turn out of the resort, then a five-minute walk. Many of the resort properties have their own pools, and there is also a sizable communal one. When we were there this was pretty underused, so no problems getting sunloungers (use the blue towels from your apartment). Alongside the pool is a gym which we didn’t use and the resort’s own restaurant, Tucano’s. We ate there on our first night as it was our only late-night option, but subsequently opted to use it for aperitifs and sundowners only. Nothing particularly wrong with it, but too pricey for my liking, and was very quiet. We really loved our stay at Encosta do Lago. Everything was just right. I’m not going to pretend Quinta do Lago is everyone’s cup of tea. Its excess reminds me of the Joe Walsh song ‘Malibu’. But look beyond, and you’ll find it’s beautifully counterpointed by the natural, the wild and the authentic. Just like the real Beverly Hills.

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